EDITORS NOTE: Shaun and Brandon had left for Chile just before Covid hit. As you will read in this second part of their adventure, it was to cut their trip short.
PART TWO
Puerto Montt was a pleasant ocean side stopover in which to regroup. Here we grabbed road trip supplies, much needed rest, bought our fishing licenses (not with guide anymore), and picked up our rental SUV. After much research into rental car companies I settled with Chilean Rent-a-Car. We were pleasantly surprised with a free upgrade to the Nissan X-Trail SUV. This was a stroke of good fortune as many of Chile’s back country access is via gravel roads that can get rough quickly. Without the SUV we would have been handicapped for much of the access. The SUV also substituted as Brandon’s sleeping quarters while I cozied up in my single man ultra-lightweight tent. Make a note if you are traveling in Chile you can buy incredible maps called “Chiletur Copec”. These are available at bookstores and some Copec gas stations. The maps breakdown Chile into nine regions and make life much easier.
VOLCANO COUNTRY!
Our first stop was the Petrohue River and Orsono Volcano. Mt Orsono rises almost 2500 metres above the lower Petrohue River valley and makes for an awesome backdrop. Here, we caught some nice trout in the cold clear mountain river water. We were also lucky to find a private, rustic camp spot for the night. We cooked some dehydrated meals and quesadillas on the back of the SUV, washing it down with some Pisco. We were able to make a decent fire and enjoy some amazing star gazing.
The following day we decided to take a drive up the Volcano. Here we hike up to the 2150 metre mark, moving across some snowfields edging on the South and Southwest glaciers. The vistas of the surrounding lakes, rivers, mountains, and glacial seracs were amazing.
MOVING ON
On our next segment we laid down some kilometers and made it to the Llaima Volcano in Conquillio National Park. To my utter amazement we were unexpectedly treated to a forest of Monkey Puzzle Trees. I had never seen them in their natural habitat. They prefer a dry sub-alpine elevation, and some appeared to be near 40 metres tall. The Monkey Puzzle Tree is the national tree of Chile, considered endangered, and native to Central Chile and Western Argentina.
A NATURAL TREAT
As we left the park, we drove past huge ancient lava flows full of blackberry bushes. This was a feast not to be passed up, so we munched on handfuls of berries while the good times lasted. Once back in the vehicle we travelled 75 kilometres to Tolhuaca National Park. Parking the vehicle, we wandered through huge old growth forests, making camp on the upper Malleco River. It was in a deep river valley right before a gorge and here we found trout action on the fly and spinner.
MAJOR LANDSCAPE CHANGE
Driving few hundred kilometers north on Chile’s Number Five National Highway we broke off just before Los Angeles and drove again towards the Andes Laguna Del Laja National Park. It was obviously visible as we drove north each day the landscape became more and more arid. Laguna De La Laja was clear lake surrounded by totally arid mountains on the border of Argentina. The road was rough and sandy but the vistas where incredible. We drove around Antuco Volcano which is comprised of a very dark brown to black volcanic rock. We hiked the southwest ridge line to 2000 metres to gain superb views of 3585-metre-high Mt. Sierra Velluda.
On the way up we came across some small cacti ready to bud and tracks and scat likely from Alpacas. For our last night we camped on the arid lake edges behind gnarly rocky outcroppings. After five days of fishing, hiking, and driving we took a wonderful swim in the lake, then set up camp.
HIGH ATLITUDE ADVENTURE
As we headed north towards Santiago the Andes Mountains grow ever higher and ever drier. Close to Santiago the Andes rise to 5000 metres or more with only permanent snow on the very top. In this area of the Andes the precipitation is so light, and it is so very arid even these super high mountains are near dry to the bone in comparison to our Canadian mountains of much lesser elevation.
TROUBLE HAS ARRIVED
In no way could one have forecasted the Covid-19 situation to accelerate so fast. The day we left Puerto Montt on our remote road trip the Canadian government issued a travel warning advising all Canadians to return home. Brandon was scheduled to return home after the road trip anyway, but I had planned a northern Andes motorcycle trip for 10 more days. Reluctantly I canceled that leg of the trip, spending two more days at the Santiago airport securing safe passage home. While disappointed I am determined to return to Chile for more mountain fishing and to complete the Andes motorcycle trip.
SUMMARY
From what I could tell from this trip the Chilean fisheries are in trouble. Over-fishing, lax fish farming regulations, damaging construction practices, river netting, poaching, lack of hatchery programs, and insufficient conservation and/or knowledge is sending various fisheries across Chile into endangered status. Our experience in Chile really made us realize how far our local communities, volunteers, regulations, and management departments have worked to support, revive, and sustain the incredible fisheries we have across Canada.
Adventure is defined by adversity, challenges, and the unexpected; Chile did not disappoint. We will have ever lasting memories and reminders of how good our fisheries are at home. Chile is a remarkable country with unbelievable natural beauty and plenty to offer the outdoor enthusiast.