BOUNTY IN THE BOREAL
An Alberta Adventure with “From the Wild”
I packed my bag in eager anticipation of the culinary adventure prepared for our group. It was late September, and northern Alberta weather can be unpredictable at this time of year. But, on this day, the spirits of the forest smiled upon us. Unseasonably warm temperatures proved the forecast right. Still, a cool freshness in the forest reminded me winter was not far away. It was an omen!
I savoured the day, learning about nature’s bounty and feasting on wild ingredients expertly prepared by masters in their craft; a team of anglers, hunters, and foragers—outdoor chefs collectively known as From the Wild.
Adventures like this are easily accessible for those hungry to learn about wild food. The base camp for this one-day outdoor workshop lies 100 kilometres due north of Edmonton. At a small, secluded property on the edge of the boreal, Kevin Kossowan, our host for the event, built a rustic permanent camp among the poplar and pines to serve as an outdoor classroom.
IN THE WILD
The pleasant smell of woodsmoke—familiar and comforting to all who spend time outdoors—greeted me as I opened the truck door. Kevin was there to welcome us too. He led us up a trail and back to a simpler time.
From a small clearing in the woods, I saw the camp kitchen, banquet table and a large canvas wall tent, a comfortable space Kevin crafted for his guests. At the ‘back’ of the kitchen is a woodshed that Kevin calls his wood library. It contains cut, split stacks of aspen, white spruce, alder, birch, pine, and tamarack firewood sorted by species, each of which imparts a unique smoky flavour to the food. A brick rocket-style stove is where much of the food magic happens. Kevin dry-laid the bricks and tested the design until it worked. At the stove, we watched Chef Alexei Boldireff as he fried, seared, and braised the wild ingredients for the menu.
A TAPESTRY OF COLOURS
Our outdoor cookery workshop coincided with the peak of fall colour. And a tapestry of yellow, orange and red were the backdrop for the day. Shed antlers and naturally fallen leaves decorated the tables and tent giving them a rustic touch of class that only mother nature can provide. Tea service waited on a raised table. Today we’re drinking Chaga tea, a wild edible fungus found on white birch trees, which is now a trendy health food. Sipping this mild beverage awoke my tastebuds for what was yet to come.
We grab our packs and head deeper into the forest. Along the way, Kevin pointed out some of the edible plants. He believes that eating outdoors is best done when ingredients under your boots inform your meals. It’s a philosophy that changed how I look at the plants in my environment and makes me want to improve my plant identification skills. But there is more to it than that; I need to learn the plant flavours and use them accordingly—either as the star ingredient or a subtle flavour. Common plants like horsetail, stinging nettle, and even wayside plants like dandelions are edible.
A SNACK ON THE GO
We stop along the trail and watch Kevin prepare a hot tasty snack on the go. He pulled out a twig stove, a small Billy pot and the ingredients he had prepared in advance. His passion for wild food is evident, and his teaching style informs and entertains. In less time than it would have taken to rehydrate a commercially made (blah-tasting) meal-in-a-bag, Kevin lights his stove and prepares a serving of organic farro (an ancient grain) cooked in chanterelle lobster butter with wild onion cream. How decadent!
THE EDIBLE FOREST
We carry on learning more about the plants and their habitats. We see hazelnut, chokecherry, saskatoon and highbush cranberry. The catkin of alder, another tree we encountered, has a zesty, citrusy flavour with a peppery finish. And can be used in place of black pepper. If you’re looking for an ingredient, you first must understand where it grows and which season you’re most likely to find it—something Kevin knows well after his decade-long journey of wild foods exploration.
Chef Alexei had been busy in the camp kitchen preparing our appetizer – onion cakes made from wild onions from right there in the forest drizzled with a lodgepole pine sauce. Meanwhile, Kevin poured us a cocktail made using fireweed syrup. The complexity of the flavours made me truly appreciate this wild food.
COCKTAIL TIME!
Next up was the crash course in wild mixology. In bush camp, the ‘bartender’ chops chunks of ice with a mini hatchet! Kevin prefers large clear pieces of ice because they provide cooling power without diluting the drink. We enjoy several cocktails, including a tequila margarita featuring a sea buckthorn liqueur, lime and spruce sea salt and Kevin’s take on an Old Fashioned also staring local wild plants.
Wild mixology is a sub-discipline of wild foraging, and mixing drinks made from infusions of wild syrups is a study of its own—so much so that From the Wild hosts stand-alone mixology workshops.
As Chef Alexei prepares the main course, Kevin shows his base camp kitchen kit. In it, he has the expected bowls, whisks, knives, plates and cutlery—standard in any kitchen—plus the extra items for campfire cooking like leather gloves, paracord for making a tripod, portable grills, a knife roll (made from moose hide), and a Formastropsis birchulina or stropping fungus.
Food always tastes better in the outdoors, but when I saw the confit duck leg topped with cream and charred onions married with the aroma of wood smoke on my plate, I knew this course would rival some of the finest food I’ve ever eaten. I was right! A sticky toffee pudding topped with spruce caramel and highbush cranberry jelly, topped with maple whip cream, and served with Labrador tea, finished the From the Wild feast.
A FOREST FULL OF FOOD AND FLAVOURS!
Kevin’s perception of wild food has changed from when he first explored wild food ingredients. “I once thought about ten percent of the plants were edible, and the rest were not. I now think the opposite is true. Except for the toxic plants (of which there are few), I use most boreal plants in my cooking. Flavouring comes from including the plant directly or by using its smoke.”
Kevin approaches food in layers. “I’ve learned to trust my palette. If a wild-inspired dish is missing something, I add another flavour. I build each recipe up to have the start-to-finish flavour profile I want; some ingredients add bold flavours and others provide complexity. The best part about foraging is discovering new in-season ingredients every couple of weeks throughout the growing season.” It keeps his food and ideas fresh.
SUSTAINABILITY
Surrounded by trees, plants, fungi and living creatures, it is hard to imagine ever depleting this renewable natural resource. As we sampled this wild fare, however, the conversation turned to what is a sustainable wild harvest. The answer varies by plant, ecosystem, and location; however, we concluded that there is no need to hoard by enjoying a sample of what’s in season and using common sense when harvesting plants. It seemed to strike a happy balance with the group.
In camp, sound environmental choices were everywhere. Instead of single-use plastic cutlery Kevin used disposable wooden forks, knives and spoons, which he later burnt in the stove. He used vintage china and silverware rather than buying new and modern Hydro Flash outdoor kitchen cups, plates and bowls served as a long-life solution to serving and eating food.
FINAL THOUGHS
Kevin’s workshop whetted my appetite for learning more about wild food. And it gives me another excuse to get outside and explore. Every meal becomes an adventure when an outdoor culinary journey is as close as the backyard or as remote as the backcountry.
For the outdoors person ready to go beyond the basics, an outdoor course like one of Kevin’s is a great way to start. Each year, more people are thinking about where their food comes from, and for those fortunate enough to play outdoors, it is all around us! When I combine two of my favourite things, food and the outdoors, you know I’m in my happy place. Thank you, From the Wild, for the inspiration.
FROM THE WILD
Kevin Kossowan shares his passion and knowledge about wild food in his web series ‘From The Wild.’ These adventures have taken him across the country, and he regularly works with chefs exploring the culinary potential of the Canadian wilderness.
More recently, Kossowan and his From the Wild team began teaching foraging, cooking and mixology workshops at his base camp north of Edmonton. The courses run from May to September, including half-day foraging walks and full-day workshops. But book early to avoid disappointment. Kossowan loves introducing new people into his world of foraging, wild mixology, and camp cookery—and an event is the best place to get started. To learn more, visit fromthewild.ca/events
Hydro Flask designed its outdoor kitchen collection for everyone who enjoys the outdoors. From plates, bowls, flatware, and more, these pieces are made from 18/8 stainless steel and use an exterior powder coat for durability. All dishes are BPA-Free and Phthalate-Free, so they’re a much healthier choice than plastic. And Hydro Flask Outdoor Kitchenware is dishwasher safe too. For dinnerware that will stand up to the most demanding outdoor adventures, visit www.hydroflask.com/outdoor-kitchen