Guide proven tactics for when the going gets tough.
When it comes to winter walleye fishing it seems like the trend is either feast or famine. One day they’re smashing everything you put in front of them and the next they’re nothing more than marks on your flasher. Trying times on the ice get more common during the mid-winter timeframe, too. When walleyes aren’t co-operating try turning to finesse techniques to coax bites from inactive fish.
WATCH FOR SIGNS
There are no hard and fast rules saying when it’s time to start finesse fishing. On a day-to-day basis I let my on-ice electronics give me the clues I need. When I mark fish, I pay close attention to how they react to the movements of my bait. Are they willing to chase it up off the bottom? Are they moving quickly? Are they hitting? If the answer to these questions is no, it’s usually enough evidence to warrant trying some finesse techniques.
SLOWER AND SMALLER
The two main concepts behind finesse fishing are downsizing baits and slowing their movements. From a walleye’s perspective, something small and slow moving represents an easy meal. When walleye decide to expend energy on a meal they want it to be a sure thing, especially during winter.
Downsizing baits can be as simple as switching from a quarter-ounce jig to an eighth-ounce jig or from a three-inch spoon to a one-inch spoon. The difference might seem insignificant to you, but to a walleye this can be enough to trigger a strike. In extreme cases I’ve turned to panfish-sized baits to get big walleye to hit. When walleye aren’t actively feeding under the ice the ‘big-baits-for-big-fish’ theory goes out the window. Big walleye routinely make meals out of small offerings.
When it comes to speed, slowing down the movements of your presentation is key for finessing sluggish walleye. If big aggressive jigging strokes aren’t working, try minimizing these movements for a finesse approach. It’s okay to jig a few feet up off the bottom to attract fish, but when it comes time to make them hit, try moving slowly and shortening your jigging stroke. Oftentimes, one-to two-inches is plenty movement. A lot can also be said for motionless (dead-sticked) baits. It’s a common notion that walleyes hit baits ‘on the fall’. In my experience, however, they tend to hit after the fall, when the bait is resting motionless. This motionless period can last anywhere from a few seconds to a few minutes before the strike. Mastering this technique requires the use of on-ice electronics to understand how fish react to your movements and motionless pauses.
Although not always necessary, live bait is a good choice for coaxing bites from finicky walleye. The same general concept of downsizing applies with live bait, too. Smaller minnows in the two-inch range are a good choice. At times, tipping baits with half a minnow – either the head half or the tail half – will receive a lot more attention then a whole minnow. A combination of scent and the realistic appearance of live bait make it unbeatable when the going gets tough.
Set lines and tip-ups are another deadly weapon in the finesse fisherman’s arsenal. They combine two important elements – live bait and a slow moving presentation – that make them successful. I like to keep my set line relatively close (less then 10-feet) to the hole where I am jigging. The theory is that jigging attracts fish to the area and the set line offers up an easy meal that is close by. Another trick I like to use with my set line is to run a modified drop-shot set-up. Tie a jig to the end of the line with a small hook tied 12-to 18-inches above it and tip both hooks with minnows. A lot of the time the small hook higher up the line takes the fish.
When the action slows down on your favourite walleye lake this winter, try some of these finesse techniques for coaxing bites from inactive fish.