Diversify Your Walleye Fry!
Is there any greater reward for a successful ice-fishing trip than a feed of fresh fish? Clear, cold winter water produces some seriously delicious fish fries. It is a great time to introduce freshwater fish to fussy eaters and as easy as picking your favourite fish coating. But sometimes it is nice to have more than one way to enjoy your bounty. Here is an exciting way to stretch your limit.
Ice Shack Snacks
Borrowing from the salmon-eating folk out west, a simple brine and your favourite spices creates a tasty snack. Candied walleye or pike is smokey, sweet, and savory. The dried meat keeps well and rival’s deer jerky as a go-to munchy.
Brine Time
Mixing sugar and salt in a 3-1 ratio creates a simple yet failproof brine. I prefer to use a mixture of brown sugar and maple syrup for the sweet and pickling salt or rock salt for the curing agent. Table salt will work in a pinch, but the iodized product will create a cloudy brine and likely affect the translucent finish of the candied fish. Add boiling water and stir to dissolve the brine. Once you measure out the sweet and salty components, customize your brine by adding your favourite spices. My go to spices are cracked black pepper, Greek seasoning, lemon pepper, and crushed pepper flakes for some heat.
Before you add your fish, taste your brine to make sure the flavour profile meets your approval. Balance out the flavours, let it cool to room temperature, and then you are ready to soak your fish.
The size of your fish candy pieces is up to you. If you want a crunchy, jerky-like finish then slice the fillets into 1/2-inch-wide strips. If you want a softer texture, cut the fillets into three equal pieces. Leave the fish in a covered container in the fridge for 3-5 days.
Smoke ‘em If You Got Them
A smoker is the best way to finish the candied fish, but a kitchen oven with convection can work as well. The extra layer of flavour from the right application of smoke is hard to beat. Start by draining the brine and spreading the fish on to a wire rack. Let stand until the fillets stop dripping the excess liquid. Traditional candied salmon technique is to hang each strip of fish on a toothpick and dangle below the rack to aid in the moisture reduction. I did this once with a batch I made from a splake. It turned out crunchy like toffee and almost see through, but the extra preparation took a long time.
However, if you lay it out, the most important thing is to make sure the pieces are not touching and that you don’t load more fish into your smoker than it can handle. Too much fish or too much contact between the pieces and there will be excess moisture, leaving the fish soft and with little shelf life.
ADJUST THE TEMPERATURE ALONG THE WAY
I like to start off with a higher temperature to draw out the excess moisture. My mickey mouse 110v smoker maxes out at 275 degrees Fahrenheit, so that’s what I set it to. Once the smoker builds up heat, I open the damper allowing the moist air to vacate. The fish is ready to smoke once it is mostly dry to the touch, which usually takes 1-2 hours.
Drop the temperature to 180 degrees, set the damper to one-quarter open and add smoke. These settings will allow a convection that draws the smoke evenly across the fish and allow for the remaining moisture to slowly dissipate.
Adding smoke when the meat is partially dried allows it to permeate. Adding it too early and you lose the flavour and finish to the moist air. I prefer a blend of hickory and local poplar. Working as a butcher in my past, we found that the poplar smoke is a mild, familiar flavour and hickory produces a nice, red finish.
I find using hardwoods such as maple can leave a charcoal/bitter flavour. In any case, add your wood chips sparingly. A small handful of chips 1 or two times is plenty of smoke. Many home-smoker enthusiasts think the contraption should puff smoke out like a 1980s bingo hall. Better think it like enjoying a fine cigar. Get a subtle smoke flavour from a subtle application of smoke.
Finishing your candied fish will take 1-2 hours. You will know it is done when the flesh is translucent from the brine, has a slight sheen from the natural oils, and has a golden-red finish from the smoke. Remove the rack and leave it at room temperature for a few hours. This is known as “rebounding”. Rebounding allows for the product to absorb some moisture from the air, so it is less like leather and more like a decadent, crispy delight.
Wrap it Up
Vacuum pack your candied fish in snack size servings for your tacklebox! No vacuum sealer? Resealable bags or an airtight food container works as well. You can even freeze the packages for long-term enjoyment, but the candied fish will keep in the fridge for some time.